sealed cartridge bottom bracket removal

. You may well need more than a lick of leverage to break the bottom bracket free of the BB shell. If theres any washers inside the arm, remove them. It is important to not slip as you may damage the threads. Well done ! Your email address will not be published. 3. With the bike clamped in a workstand, shove the base of the crank-arms 40mm is generally the starting length but if you only find a 50mm you can just stack a ton of washers on it. See the crank section for Unique B2B insights from inside the Taiwan Bike Industry. Rotate into the cut for one or one-and-a-half turns. Square taper is the old standard, however there are newer, less common systems such as ISIS, Octalink and through-axle. . for more information on these. If you wanted the pedals Only bottom brackets corroded into the BB shellresist this assault. Make sure you replace your bottom bracket with a like-for-like. Just unscrew them both.). Use a tool without a wrench to do this. Learn how your comment data is processed. away from, then back towards the bike to detect wobble. Adjusting the bearing tightness: First remove the left This article will discuss how to remove and install bottom brackets used in threaded shells, including three-piece cranks, threaded "thru-spindle" external bearing cups, and bottom brackets used in T47 shells. and adjust the tightness so the spindle turns smoothly without wobbling. a JIS crank on an ISO spindle or the other way round, Combining the components from these opposing standards is possible, though, if you address the technical issue of the, Most square tapered bottom brackets come in the form of a cartridge and are thus called, then upgrading via a cartridge BB would be it, Simply remove the old bottom bracket and replace it with the new. 70 Nm is 70 Nm whether youre tightening a bolt, or loosening it. adjusted. The dirt here is often the source of creaks. For example, a 68x116 bottom bracket is 68 mm wide as it You wont be able to break the drive-side free whilst the lockring is still firmly anchored in the non-drive side BB shell. If you have not tapped the threads, or dont intend to, then thoroughly wipe down the BB shell threads. Check the chainring bolts are greased and tight. 4. It's easiest to remove the bottom bracket with the bike lying on its Loads of WD40 applied Now try to pull the cranks If youve tapped the BB shells and you are now finding resistance, it will be alright to slowly and carefully continue turning the bottom bracket into the shell. put and lock the bb in a clamp, turn the bike. Nothing I have seen online definitively tells me how to remove it, including this page! Note: A very special thank you to Lunar Cycles, which is a bike shop in Camden whove helped me bring these repairs to London Cyclist and to the Bike Doctor app. pedals turn free from the frame. tap the bottom bracket tool gently with a hammer as you apply force. No luck. I was tearing this bike down and i did notice that every component was extremely difficult to remove. Start by shifting in to the largest chainring. Dont start with the drive side. A torque wrench with the torque setting cranked up high to, say,70 Nm or so, will provide all the leverage required if you dont have a breaker bar or something similar. What is the main difference between them? Well, its not too much trouble to tote the appropriate wrench in your kit on a ride so you can tighten the nut on the road if you find its worked loose. Set a hair dryer on a couple inches away and run it until both surfaces are hot to the touch then try again. Snug However, the longer the BB has been installed, the trickier this multi-step, multi-tool procedure tends to be. The threads may have been slightly damaged on removal, or simply never been tapped by the installing mechanic in the first place, a heinous sin if ever there was one. Have you tried the usual places? But if your cottered crank setup becomes unusable in one way or another, then upgrading to a square taper bottom bracket will be the go. A seat post, or basically any type of narrow-gauge pipe, will do the trick. For a more intimate look at the process, you might like to check out the video weve made on this subject. lockring removing tool to the notches on the lockring and twist about 1/2 turn lots of harm can result where the grease is not enough. Italian threaded cups will have marking stating 36x24.. bearings there also.). 8mmx1mm machine bolt is the current standard for crank arm retaining bolts for square taper BBs. Begin with the square taper bottom bracket complete unit on the drive (right) side. Ill shortly give you a, The King Cycle group, Truvativ, and Race Face joined forces to create the alternative, open, Although we are primarily focused on square taper bottom brackets here, I mention ISIS since, For a more intimate look at the process, you might like to, The first is an ISIS bottom bracket tool. . If there is one reason to upgrade from a cottered setup to a square taper BB then upgrading via a cartridge BB would be it. There are several types of square taper cartridge bottom bracket are available on the market today. That long handle allows maximum force with minimum effort to get the BB turning and on its way out of the shell. This model is a bit more stable when engaged with the BBs splines. Start by securely placing the bottom bracket remover onto the left side of the bottom bracket. This will require a lot of effort at first but then will become easy as it comes off. Tighten it by using your hands only. If you don't, get a piece of pipe and slip it over the end of your wrench and turn it SLOWLY. set of bearings, place a cloth under the bike to catch any loose bearings. not gifted or confident when it comes to these kind of things but I would like to give it a go, if only to save money. In others, the unit is sealed, so the bottom bracket must be replaced to our Youtube Channel while you are at it. The BB is still perfectly operational but i doubt it can be removed conventionally. A lot is in the feel of the tool: some extractions require more force than others and you develop the feel for what is appropriate Practice makes perfect but if you get it wrong (and you may not know what that is if youve never done it before) practising it would negate the DIY reason in the first place. crank from the spindle. really good idea is to run a tap through the threads to ensure that they are in perfect order. These instructions are fine for those with a cartridge BB, but not a lot of use for those of us who still use cup-and-cone BBs. longer lever. If that does happen, try method two: Take to welding shop, have somebody weld on a nut. Done this twice now where the previous mentioned ideas in this thread failed. This will often mean measuring the old bottom bracket (which you can effectively do in a vice) or, more commonly, going to your local bike shop and asking Can I have a replacement one of these please?. For the two-piece crankset, there is a left and right arm, but the spindle is attached to one of the cranks. This will allow you to feel whether its going in crooked. Notify me of follow-up comments by email. (Photo shows a left-sided bottom bracket. get the BB shell as clean as you can. Ill shortly give you a detailed set of illustrated instructions on how to this with a minimum of trouble. . If you are faced with that situation, then youll have a good excuse to get a new frameperfectly complementary to a new BB setup. Which website would you like to use? For mechanics who balk at this, a torque wrench cannot distinguish between the uses to which its put. A tapping (and facing) tool is quite expensive. A breaker bar is the standard solution for loosening stubborn bottom brackets. The problem was solved with the purchase of a 2-foot long chrome-vanadium wrench handle and the relevant socket to fit the extractor tool. Now put in the adjustable bearing cup (on the left) A good option is: use Teflon pipe tape on the bottom bracket threads. to loosen it. I'll consider trying the heat gun in combination with penetrating fluid for the seatpost. Now bottom bracket on the left-hand side. aj_server = 'http://rotator.adjuggler.com/servlet/ajrotator/'; aj_tagver = '1.0'; This can potentially be from the bottle cage bolts if they are missing or it is possible as the cups were not properly tightened. But, again, just for the leverage afforded you should have access to a long-handled torque wrench. t4eP#V q@vV_]4d;\+dYiGjI'`"CL:uM9% SNvq'/`K\8*tOeiN 5yXq&aG|tbuy'#'9-;aAvEX/"+FU0Neh-/F&.~'xr~Y7"W8*hJkG7J?YIbY!q}HR\{%5anVf;9_/W!K'>NgExvLx3#`l0#g'sSA%]T4t} I intend on selling the frame to partially recoup my losses. The spindle passes through the bearings in the bottom bracket shell. The tapping bits need to be carefully rotated into the BB shells threads. Always looked quite daunting. Either tool will do the job. lockring left. If theres any dirt left, scrub it using a toothbrush with degreaser. Ive just had a mobile mechanic destroy mine trying for 4 hours to get it off. Convenient it may be but the short handle does not give you much leverage. With the bottom bracket cartridge sitting flush against the BB face and the lockring installed, the torque now needs to be adjusted to tolerance. If you feel it crunching then the ball bearings may be worn. Apply cutting oil to assist in preserving the tools cutting edges. Its worth replacing them with a known brand. Turn counter clockwise to remove. This tool extracts . widths: the bracket width should match the frame, and the spindle width should The drive-side is the crucial side of course since that constitutes the cartridge bottom bracket as a whole. If they look cross threaded then you should get a knowledgeable local bike shop to re-thread them before further damage is done. Clean the threads on the inside of the bracket housing, and clean the A robust tapping tool is what you will need to complete that task. Bolt your tool to the bottom bracket and hit it with the largest breaker bar you can find. . The crank sits snugly on the splines without the need to jam the crank onto the spindle as with a square taper design. It may At least till you crumple your frame ; ). Repeat this procedure on the right side and turn it clockwise to loosen the cup holding the bottom bracket in place. If not then a bit will drop away from the BB shell as it exits and damage the threads at the very edge. And there will be less wear and tear . The simplest bearing setup allowing the spindle to rotate inside the bottom bracket shell: While nearly all square taper spindles have the 2 angle, there are two standards for measuring the spindles flat edges. Each side of the spindle has a mechanism to The post gives you all you need to know about square taper bottom brackets including how to remove and install them in great detail. In total i have 1 seatpost 1 Cartridge BB 1 Cup + Cone BB 2 Pedals 1 Freewheel. Begin with thread preparation. Check the cranks are tight by trying to wiggle them side to side while holding the frame. To come to complete terms with the modern square taper cartridge bottom bracket, you firstly need an understanding of the ISIS or International Splined Interface Standard. The first is an ISIS bottom bracket tool. Leave it slightly loose. The bottom bracket spindleit is a spindle and not an axle since it spins on the bearingsleft and right side has a simple box-shaped or square end. Buy some PB Blaster. Also, check the outer face of the bottom bracket is correctly faced. dont tend to sag towards the floor. When it is fully dried, grease the threads using high-quality grease. There should be equal space around the bottom bracket. Spanner, forget it. Take note of any spacers under the cup for reassembly. I had this problem with a second hand bike I bought once. . crank type (a crank with a square hole must be mounted on a BB with the square Besides this single-case instance, other types include bottom brackets with alloy cups and an alloy sleeve. Never give up! Cost. First, remove the The first thing to do is loosen then remove the non-drive side lock ring. I effectively found this when removing the left side just stripped, but the right came off fine, then I could take off the left. The bit will both rotate easier and cut more keenly. (Since you are removing a standard -- non-sealed -- Now install the lockring in the non-drive side. . Cartridges with two steel cups and an alloy sleeve. When re-installing the old BB or a new one the result may be a cross threaded BB . I then went to one of my bikes with a cartridge BB and gave that a test to see which direction i should turn. So far i've tried it on the cartridge, a cup + cone BB and a stuck seatpost with no luck. 6. lockring from the left side. This will give you a more reliable service in the long term. lockring is on the left-hand side, opposite the chain. . Thanks for this! I have modern bikes with both configurations: bracket left with If you have a torque wrench then you can use it to tighten it to the manufacturers specifications. The non drive side is a plastic sleeve that helps hold the BB tightly in place. If the fixed Install your old cranks, and away you go . The new BB will have a removable side which will typically be on the non-drive side. transfer the chain onto the smallest ring without hitting the bike frame. Correctly faced means it is completely square. This way youll clean out any fine grit that has settled in stubborn grease deposits deep in the threads. This particular brand is not available on Amazon strangely enough but is available elsewhere online. Excellent set of instructions. But the drive side of a bottom bracket is generally tighter than the non-drive side. Brake lever bolts, crank arms, stem all were extremely difficult to remove, often requiring a lot of WD40 and a hammer. Press J to jump to the feed. I believe the person who built it did not use grease on the threads and used a 5 meter wrench to attach everything on to the point where they might as well have just welded the dam thing together. With the bottom bracket in place, check from the left side whether it looks correctly aligned inside the frame. then come up against resistance. Everything i believe was over torqued and ungreased and to top it off, rust had bound certain areas together. immobilized with the pin wrench, tighten the lockring. Well look it to adding instructions for cup and cone BBs too Wayne. The drive side clockwise to loosen and the other side counter clockwise to loosen. (See the crank section for information.) opposite side is the cartridge containing all the guts of the bottom A seat post, or basically any type of narrow-gauge pipe, will do the trick. While keeping the bearing cup from the housing. The less common Italian has both left and right sides with right-hand threading. A square taper bottom bracket in the form of a cartridge is a reliable bottom bracket for your bike, easy to maintain and replace. First always start on the metal (drive) side. The simplest form of the square taper is in this cotterless spindle. You should also remove it if youve simply not serviced your bike in a long time. Then stick the BB tool in, but a crank bolt through the hole to hold it in place (with 1/4 turn of slack), then put a spanner on the BB tool, a piece of pile on the tool, and all your weight on that. Once you have broken it free all that remains is to continue to turn the bottom bracket cartridge and remove it from the bb shell. EDIT1 : This chart is useful .. Great to print out and hang on the wall Threading. That, You wont be able to break the drive-side free whilst the lockring is still firmly anchored in the non-drive side BB shell, If the square taper bottom bracket in question has a, But the drive side of a bottom bracket is generally. hole in the frame. . This can be tricky as theres a pretty wide variety. A few swings in the counter clockwise direction just in case. To get a complete picture, lets firstly look at whatpreceded the square taperthe cottered bottom bracket. Adjustable cup-and-cone threaded bottom brackets are reviewed in Bottom Bracket Service: Adjustable Cup-and-Cone. yes, I have seen bottom brackets that were not greased rattling around in, A pair of nitrile gloves for handling the grease is a good idea, especially if you are keen on keeping greasy finger marks off the frame when doing subsequent work. the opposite side's lockring may come loose as you turn the bottom bracket. if it misbehaves in any way. An expensive solution, perhaps, but I've used the wrench handle dozens of times over the years since then and don't regret buying it. Dry off the area. I got the WD40 on and hammer out and proceeded to give it a few swings in a clockwise direction. That stability is due to the pin in the center which inserts into the spindle. Note that as with any of these repairs, a longer tool (often more expensive) will make a huge difference. Simply remove the old bottom bracket and replace it with the new. It is highly advisable that the shell threads be thoroughly cleaned and tapped/faced at any rate as a standard procedure. Incorrectly fastening while misaligned can result in stripping the crank threads and ultimately ruining the crank. Lube the threads on the inside of the bracket housing. The bottom bracket type must match the Remove the lockring with a pipe But it probably wont be correct, and the force you will have to apply will likely ruin the threads. Please keep us updated, and make some pics. what tools are required from start to finish? The bottom bracket is often the source of many irritating creaks on your bike. but thats for another day) the threads to perfection is the professional thing to do. plus chainrings. http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help, Thats impressive timing! Use a long length Allen key to tighten them if they are not. A really, really, really . . stripping! After removing the lockring, flip the bike over, and take out the Css Menu Javascript by Vista-Buttons.com v4.3.0. The one we replaced it with cost 22. New cups may come with dry threadlocker already applied. In That may make seating the bottom bracket exactly into the right track in the threads very difficult. An alternative which does the same job is a cartridge bottom bracket tool. If you don't see gear-like teeth around the inside of Turn the crank and No movement. Most mid-priced bikes of around 500 800 often have brand less components fitted to save money. In the event that you do need to replace your BB, following the steps outlined here will ensure you get it right. /Rttm%fH~ 0Dw).TQPfK7_jN"jqp- \0%am=Un0}#4kaF iP"O': :ks+$L.aZrI$U (H %3WDbX,w"mqd[7qez4.0%c{16n4j,z Once you are satisfied the crank extractor is firmly and accurately in place, turn clockwise on the drive side so that you start to feel the crank being pushed off the taper. In many cases the factory installed the BB with a pneumatic tool without regard for maximum torque limits. Seeing as both bikes are caked in dirt, i actually wouldn't be suprised if grit getting into the threads and seatpost tube is partially the reason why everything is so difficult to remove. Still another option is a threadlocker such as Park Tool TLR-1. This was the ONLY way I could get a bottom bracket out of a 2007 frame that was assembled with near ZERO thread treatment. . Use a suitable BB removal tool to firmly tighten the drive side first anti-clockwise. aj)TcOH}J1dW:?`B&I>Ru@u Scan down to the next section. If you have a vice, use the frame for leverage. If theres water trapped in the bottom bracket area then this is a bad sign and means it is leaking in to the frame from somewhere. Fully secure cup to manufacturers torque specifications. The lockring will probably not be as tight as the drive-side which, because it is the drive-side, tends to be tighter. . This should be followed by the left side which will need to be firmly tightened clockwise. There will be immediate resistance. Post your problems, and we will try to get your bike rolling again. If the BB is an old one, been in there for a long time, then that initial movement will be hard to get even if you have liberally applied penetrating fluids over an extended time period. That means forcing the bottom bracket threads to sit (seemingly) correctly in the BB shell. 8. I cannot remove this thing, even the local bike repair man could not remove it.

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