repair hole in chipboard floor

hang over bath to dry)? I know but if you were going to do it with chipboard, what would you do? Is that too wide for 18mm chipboard. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. I've got a spare length of flooring grade chipboard in the loft so I will cut a suitable section out of this, mount it on the bearers (Again spare timber), screw it down all round and give it a coat of varnish or PVA. Are you a trade or supplier? If the floor was 'proper' floorboards the water would probably have rotted them or tracked through and damaged the ceiling below. The house I bought recently has chipoard floors instead of floorboards. But if you feel the undamaged particle board will remain in good condition, you would only have to tear out the areas that need replacing. or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you. Any ideas ? Rubber-backed doesn't necessarily mean waterproof and moisture can get trapped under, especially if carpet is laid. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. It's easy! It's all going to depend on the joist positions and you're competence LEH. A-Z CONTENTS | I have nogginned a few joists though as the T&Gs don't line up with joists in every case. And see what happens. Water is a pain, if there is a gap it will usually find it. (Sometimes even chipboard is thicker in bathrooms). You'll also want some noggins where the chipboard joins to the other rooms, to provide extra support as you go in and out of the rooms. 5 Things you probably didn't know about Carpentry Pencils, Top 10 Basic Carpentry Skills every newbie should master. Anyway, sounds like a plan that'll work if the joists are sound. can all be installed over chipboard) which makes them extremely versatile in many applications. Mind you the rest of the boards were sound. Carpet in a bathroom is always a bad idea, Laminate flooring even worse. For repair, I always reckon that a bad bit should be cut out from joist to joist and possibly with an extra baton for support screwed to the side of each joist as modern joists are very narrow, widthwise. Now starting at the beginning and with a pouch full of screws start filling the boards up. With the Saturday shopping out of the way, I've had the opportunity to pull back the carpet and had a closer look at what's happened. Smaller areas can be cut out and fixed by bridging the join with battens screwed underneath. Why not replace the lot with a bit of 18mm external ply? Bloody things queaks and creaks like hell too. For an even better and longer lasting job, when I lay chipboard fooring I always PVA glue the joints and use a bead of flexible glue like Sikaflex Adhesive on the joist to ensure there are no squeaks you need to fix later once the floor boards are screwed down tight on to the joists. These days, it can be all chipboard. I'm at a loss to think what caused it ? Not sure how or why it squeaks/creaks/groans but the bedrooms have parts of the floor that make a noise when stepped on. Not sure why chipboard should squeak as theoretically, it woudn't expand and contract (so doesn't flex) as wood does though :rubchin: There is another idea that it's better to use "twinned screws", so that instead of using one that could work loose by a board bouncing, one would put two screws an inch or two apart as "\/". Copyright 2002-2021 SUMMIT 360 Ltd. E.& O.E. All trademarks and copyrights remain property of their respective owners. Make sure your shoelaces are done up, don't have too manty cables lying around or any obstructions that could cause you to trip or lose your footing. DIY VIDEO | Check the bath is secure, if it moves the seal around it will fail. Only thing is that that the floorboards are centre tongued whereas the chipboard is tongued on the lower edge - Oh err missus ! If however the rip ended up at 100mm for example, it would be better to rip 100mm off the first row before you lay them, so that when you get to the end you would have approximately a 200mm rip to cut in - 50mm more than the minimum recommended by the manufacturer (For more help ripping down sheet materials with a circular saw visit the circular saw page here), This technique ensures you won't screw the first board or two slightly out of square/straight with the rest of the room and ensures that the rest of the floor will flow smoothly and quickly thereafter. More likely that the sealant isn't sealing any more. So a bit of cutting will be required on the chipboard. Re sealant and black mould on top and the tons of cleaners marketed to remove it - in my experience, it's caused by damp coming up from under, not lack of surface cleaning skills re the sealant. So they don't use real floor boards in houses these days when building them? Editor, Marcus Herbert, https://www.dropbox.com/s/0ufgepl8umlisys/20190922_131015-.jpg?dl=0, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r-TfCeyqBds. A few days ago I noticed that a small patch of the bathroom floor, 6" x 9" ,next to the bath was beginning to move up and down a little. You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local. I also discovered when changing the bath that someone had literally bashed a hole in the floor under the bath when plumbing in the shower so I ended up putting the bath on two nice hefty planks and bracing the damaged floorboard and planks with a dirty great piece of angle iron - the nearest joice was the other side of the wall so I couldn't cut out the damaged bit there was nothing to sit a new piece on. It usually goes through the washer once every couple of months, so there shouldn't be an mold problems there. So I will cut the appropriate section from this length. Also, the edges around the bottom side de-lamination were not dirty, suggesting that these were the last to break and that the centre of the damaged area delaminated first. Re floorboards, these are normally set into/under the walls, so you might need to buy "hangers" as you can only get one end in and under, not both, of course. Replacing t&g floors, HOW? So the strategy will be to cut out a section of board, which extends north and south to the joist faces and east to the retaining piece. (I use my thumb but some sealants are poisonous so take care!). I lay chipboard flooring boards down dry initially for two rows before fixing anything: First off I lay the first row down dry and cut the last board in to length. As to repair/replacement I dont want to have to remove the board as it runs parallel to and under the bath and into the next room, which at the very least will mean removing the bath. Thanks. Securing a wall plate to a wall to carry floor. ! As another said (I think), it's better to lay loose lino and pref not carpet on a fibreboard bathroom floor Take it up periodically, take off the side panel of the bath, get a torch and see what's going on (hopefully nothing). In Episode 4 of Ask Danny, Im talking with my longtime friend and drywall expert Mark Rutherford The Drywall Guru.. Just for good measure you could put a couple of braces across between the joist for the new boards to lie on. Clunkclick, (Click here to read). 3: Answers on All Things Painting. Sounds good -- which Gorilla product?/q, /I've fitted battens below floors before, but this time I was just after Powered by Invision Community. Thanks, nothing warrants replacing panels thankfully. It will just channel the water to somewhere else. By What's your position on the horseless carraige vs. the horse and buggy, BTW? Forgot to say, joists centres are 14" apart. The most important thing is to find and stop the leak. Re the groove thingy, if the chipboard and floorboard (or replacement chipboard) is set on the joist, it wouldn't need to be tongue and grooved there, just butted, so would just need to take off the ickle sticky-out bit from the chipboard if it's pointing that way. I think I will then renew the plastic bath edging topside, after having re-caulked it. 'Joists' sat across the concrete beams which are the structural floor of the building, afaik. I can't understand this, as 99 % of the time I use a rubber backed bath mat over this position, so I am doubtful that damp in the carpet has caused this problem. Gassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff, 2022 Pistonheads Holdco Limited, All Rights Reserved, PistonHeads is a registered trademark of CarGurus Ireland Limited, Pistonheads Holdco Limited, c/o Legalinx Limited, 3rd Floor, 207 Regent St, London W1B 3HH, United Kingdom. I'm a bit averse to using another flooring type such as ply for the replacement, in case its different characteristics e.g stiffness adversely react with the carpet when its folded back in place. Knowing how to lay chipboard flooring perfectlyis essential - because they are the most commonly specified floor boards in the UK. The only way to repair deteriorated or rotten particle board subflooring is to remove the damaged areas. If you don't want to replace or board over as suggested, the only solution is to cut the damage out and replace (make a template to get a good fit or use a holesaw if area is small enough) and screw battens/boards underneath and across the damaged area/to side of joists as required, screw the 'patch' down to these. Boards are 600mm wide and 2400mm long, meaning they are fairly easy to manage plus quick and easy to lay. HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. / This will leave a reversed "C" section of the existing undamaged board north, south and east of the hole. Heres how to go about it. FORUM RULES, Post They used to put chipboard throughout and marine ply (as pittVRS says) in the bathroom. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. Welcome to BRISKODA. Thanks,For plywood, what about where two sheets meet? Most modern houses have tounge and groove chipboard flooring throughout. Get yourself set-up safely! If you need to re silicone, make a thourough job of cleaning off the old stuff and make sure it is dry before re siliconing and fill the bath with water to nake it settle before running a bead of silicone around the edge between the tile and the bath. Going back to the fracture lines, I'd think it must be dry to cause those (and a fair weight to boot), If the chipboard is reasonably OK (not breaking up, just cracks) and you can get at it, could you use a spirit level and pack one of the joists as necessary and paint lots of rubber PVA into the cracks? BRISKODA are not directly responsible for information which maybe posted in this forum. something quick and simple, it actually worked out better than I'd Backed by his 40-year remodeling career, Danny served as the home improvement expert for CBSs The Early Show and The Weather Channel for more than a decade. If the sealant is removed, thus leaving a gap, stuff some tissue/toilet paper in for a while and see if it comes out wet. Continue to lay chipboard flooring across the joists for the rest of the floor, ensuring the joints along the 600mm edges are staggered - always avoid joining on the same joist wherever possible, Joists: Your sub-floor joists should be at 400mm centres meaning the edge of the boards always falls on a joist too, Mass screw the boards down: Once I have laid 3-4 rows and depending on the time it has taken (glue will go off in 30 minutes depending on temperature) I will stop laying boars for a moment, sweep the floor off and use the chalk line to mark lines onto the flooring representing where the joists are. First of all, the degradation has only affected a 12" square section, at exactly the point where one's foot alights when getting out of the bath - feet away from the taps and waste outlets and on the open (as opposed to enclosed) side of the bath. These are tools & fixings I use to lay chipboard flooring: Step by step guide on how I lay chipboard flooring! I would rather tear pallets apart and use that wood as floorboards, than try and get chipboard to fit in there successfully. This is where I'd read trundlenut's post again, though hangers ought to be an option. Yes, but as life chairman of the CHS of B you would say that, wouldn't you. They certainly look the business for a floating floor but not sure about under a carpet? What we used to do for delaminated skateboards was to mix sawdust of different density (depending on the severity of the damage) with PVA glue and then spread that into the gaps before clamping them shut. Hopefully, gross cost of repair will be next to nothing. We are registered with the Information Commissioner, registration number ZA187892, it details the purpose for which we process personal data. Put another way, cutting out a bit of chipboard and screwing a batton to the underside of a big piece remaining would not be my choice as the integrity of the whole board would be compromised just from cutting a bit out. In the good old days, they would stop creaking which arises from boards rubbing over the joists by putting a bit of felt in between, or rubbing the joist with candle wax. You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Or you could cut out to the nearest joists then add some extra timbers to the joists for the new board to sit on and cut a new piece of board to fit the hole. This will be easy as you will have initially marked the position of each joist on the first row and will still be able to see the joists at the most recent part laid. Disclaimer: BRISKODA is not an official SKODA site and is not affiliated to SKODA in any way. This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. You must log in or register to reply here. A badly fitted shower screen or careless use of a curtain can cause water to run down the front of the bath panel. Check the silicone around the edge of the bath. BRISKODA is owned and operated by Summit 360 Ltd, registered in England & Wales, company number 05710517. Hardwood bamboo is incredibly resistant to water ingress. SAFETY FIRST | I have over boarded with 12mm ply before which makes things stronger and a suitable substrate to tile on. Sink all screws slightly, glue and fill edges/heads as required. We do not warrant the accuracy or reliability of any of the information. I can only think that this would happen if the board had been bowed upward, as the hump in the floor suggested. Have any comments, questions or anything to add about how to lay chipboard flooring? Having just read your later post about the leak - I suggest you take the floor up and replace anyway - you can check the joists aren't quietly rotting away at the same time! For uneven floors use a dry levelling grain like ecobeads. Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search. Chipboard isn't flexible (unless it's wet, lol). Particle board is easily damaged by moisture and water, making it a poor choice for subflooring. Bit late to this but I have had problems with a chipboard floating floor. In my old house one of the boards in the bathroom disintergrated along the tongue and groove, I discovered the board went through into the bedroom so I bought a steel sheet from B&Q and screwed through it into the floorboards, worked a treat. We don't as a general policy investigate the solvency of companies mentioned (how likely they are to go bust), but there is a risk any company can struggle and it's rarely made public until it's too late (see the. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited. Chipboard does seem to turn to soggy weatabix when it gets moist so its not ideal for the bathroom but its seems to be that way in most houses. When I removed what I thought to be the broken section in its entirety, I found to my horror a separate piece corresponding to the bottom surface had already parted company with the bit bearing the top surface (Carpet side) and had obviously been laying on the top of the plasterboard ceiling below, together with wood shavings debris. His extensive hands-on experience and understanding of the industry make him the go-to source for all things having to do with the home from advice on simple repairs, to complete remodels, to helping homeowners prepare their homes for extreme weather and seasons. Just know from what I've found that previous peeps had done (What the) and trying best to learn what fixes such things. From some more research it seems that you can go down to 150mm strips and the gap to the right is 200mm so I suppose a strip of that width would do it with noggins along the edge. Drilling holes is a great idea, that will be a lot simpler. The joists run across the line of the boards and the bath and the damage extends up to the piece of timber that retains the plastic bath panel at floor level. The groove joint is often a weak point - they are supposed to be fully glued on installation but many people don't bother. (In other words, the flexing absorption distance of stress being broken - me not an engineer, but I know what I mean). Tanking is no good. I think I would do it that way. Re its getting wet, do you pick up the bath mat after use (e.g. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners. The board is dry and does not appear to be suffering from dry rot. Thanks everyone for your advice and pointers - there are definitely some things there that I didn't think of. Sounds like someone got out the bath a bit too heavily? If you want to keep these then a thick bath mat will help catch drips and stop them soaking through to the flooring. The nature of the fracture was strange. We're not sure where the joists are, but can you get some noggins in place under the wall to support. Glue and screw battens either side to form ledges that can support the infill panel. You could still use 18mm if you drill a couiple of holes in the underside to let the capped pipes sit in. The off-cut from this board can then be used to start the second row which I will also lay down before having fixed anything in place. Sign up for a new account in our community. The only thing I really wanted to add was that are grades of flooring specifically for wet areas (mine had a green hue). So I'd been treading on half-thickness board for some time. I think the only suitable flooring in a bathroom or toilet is tiles or good quality lino. for big holes u should noggin joists and replace panels. And, yes the bath matt is hung over the side of the bath when not in use. expected. Which is just as well as it seems to be a thickness that isn't standard these days, and it was fitted before the internal walls, so would be a complete ballache. The stuff sets rock hard when it's cured. There should be 5 screws into each joist per board, this is easy to do one 30mm from each edge, one in the middle and then one more in each direction from the middle to the edge equally spaced. Needless to say, baths are rarely set on lino, it starting at the panel usually, so water will happily find its way down the panel of the bath. Very odd, it looks like impact damage. Allow to cure fully before using the bath, I allow 24 hours to be sure then hose down the area with the shower to check for leaks. Stud walls rest on the floor. by dewaltdisney Sat May 30, 2020 11:57 am, Post Reading what you say and hoping I've understood, it does seem more likely that it's water dripping from person down the bath panel rather than wet feet and because weight will be on the foot area you mention, the water will gravitationally go that way. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. Smooth it in using a round edged tool regularly dipped in soapy water. In an ideal world you would lay chipboard flooring before installing the plasterboard to the walls so that the plasterboard can cover the 10mm expansion gap left around the perimeter. I used to have a car parking permit that was made to fix a tax disk holder. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. If I may, and not necessarily in sequence, and please bear in mind that I know nothing. Yeah. The existing arrangement has lasted 20 years and the planned replacement, with a coat of varnish, will be a little more durable - it will out do my period of tenure here ! If you have planks to walk on make sure they don't overhang dangerously and aren't going to flip up if you stand on the very end. How to Remove and Replace Rotten Particle Board Subflooring, How to Patch a Hole in a Wood Floor from a Furnace Grate, Installing Cement Backer Board on a Wood Subfloor Before Tiling, How to Install Pavers Over a Concrete Patio Without Mortar, Chelseas Picks: 3 Paint Colors That Work for Any Accent Wall, This Side Up: Installing Insulation Correctly, Changing the Mortar Color on the Fireplace, Ask Danny | Ep. Eh ? It is made from resin & ground up rubbish and can have weak unbonded areas. I've been down to Wickes, they have a couple of ranges of tongued and groved floor boards (17 for 4), which if coated with a few coats of marine varnish, will probably do the job. The Roadside Hotel. Joists can be tricky to walk on. We often link to other websites, but we can't be responsible for their content. On old houses, there was an airbrick set in to air the underfloor cavity area, so important to try to keep air movement going another way in modern houses and enclosed bathrooms (e.g. Although chipboard floor boards are available in 18mm and 22mm thicknesses you will almost certainly need 22mm thick for any normal modern flooring application. They are also a good solid material to use for garage or shed shelving, homemade workbenches & in your loft space for extra storage too. Fix bearer battens to the joists, extending suffiently east to connect with the middle of the undamaged "C" section and to fit a joist cross brace at the East and west joints of the new and undamaged old board. Subscribe today for exclusive content & tips in your inbox! Earlier this evening, I had a closer look at the damage, and I think I can get away with just replacing an approx 14" x 11" section, as all the board outside this area seems sound at present. As a general set-up I will try to have a pile of floor boards all facing the exact same way so I don't need to think too much about which way to start marking the board as I go through, and I am less likely to cut from the wrong end. Chipboard floorboards are inexpensive, strong, hard wearing, able to handle high traffic loads, water resistant and suitable for just about any final floor coverings to be laid on top (tiles/carpets/laminates etc. If I'm lucky, I will be able to leave the bath in situ, lever out the old chipboard and slip the replacement boards into place - I don't think I would be able to get away with that using replacement chipboards as they are too wide. Again, me not know so will happily stand corrected. I wonder if, there is a proper way of "Tanking" a fitted bath installation to capture leaks round the bath edge, e.g a polypropalene membrane or bitumen ? 2 or 3 ply). I'm going to replace the chipboards on my landing as they are a complete mess after being taken up twice and a bodge repair by the previous owner. It just so happens that the break sits on this raised portion as well as being the prime landing point for feet coming out of the bath -double whammy ! You may next be in a position to install skirting boards after having laid your chipboard flooring. Gaps in tile grouting can cause water to run down the back of the tiles. The views expressed herein are those of the individual contributors and not necessarily those of BRISKODA or SKODA. Is your spare flooring board the same depth? To remove damaged sections of particle board subflooring: If your time and budget allow, I would remove all the particle board subflooring and replace it with plywood. DISCLAIMER | Anyway the recovered bits of chip board didn't show any evidence of fungus/mold attack.

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